Basic Steps in Brain Tanning

Basic Steps in Brain Tanning The following photos were taking in programs that Tamara Wilder ( http://www.paleotechnics.com ) or Brian King has lead.

	Skinning First Cuts around the hocks are the few times the knife is used. Fisting the hide Put the knife away and removing the hide with a fist, not a knife. This is to prevent any knife or score marks on the hide. Score marks now will become holes later.
	Fleshing Remove any meat and fat from the hide.
	Bucking Floating an egg to determine proper concentration of hard wood ash, Then soak hide until hair slips. The high Ph of the ash water pushes the mucus out of the skin so that the brains in a later step will absorb into the skin more readily
	Traditional bone scraper
	Graining with the bone tool Remove the grain, the part of the skin that holds the hair. Any grain will make the hide stiffer and will prevent the smoke from entering the hide when smoking the hide latter on.
	Graining with a dull fleshing knife
	Dry skins After the hides have been grained set them in the sun to dry. This should not take any more then an hour on a dry day. This drying will make the membraning much easier and productive.
	Re-hydrate
	Membrane Using the fleshing tool remove the membrane which is what holds the blood vessels. Like the grain, if any membrane is left the hide will be hard and will prevent the smoke from penetrating the hide
	Rinse When the hide is sufficiently rinsed the hide will feel loose and thin. At first the hide might get thicker. As the rinsing continues the hide will become thinner. This will take a lot of rinsing. Adding a 1/4 cup of vinegar can aid in this process if your water is high Ph.
	Wringing Wrap the hide so it forms a donut with the outside of the skin out. Wring in one direction then the other, then rotate the hide and do it again.

	Open up the skin Opening the skin will make the skin be thirsty and will do a better job of taking up the brains.
	Dress the hide Soak in hide in brains for a few minutes.
	Wring Wring out the hide saving the brains. Then reopen the hide and repeat the braining and wringing processes.
	Soften Keep the hide in motion stretching, pulling over a stake, pulling over a cable. I suggest that when you think the hide is dry you freeze it, if is freezes then the hide was not dry and should be continued to be worked. If it does dry and get hard re hydrate the hide and continue to soften it until it is dry and loose.

	Smoke If the hide was to get wet at this point and dried without working it the fibers would glue themselves back together again and would become hard. Smoking the hide will make it unaffected by water. The resins in the smoke penetrate the hide and prevent them from gluing them back together again. Glue into a sack so that the smoke will be forced through the hide.
	Opening the skin with twigs If the hide touches itself the smoke will not penetrate in the spots and will discolor. Put twigs in the sack to keep the hide open.
	Plugging holes Plug the holes with cotton or paper so there is a higher pressure inside then out so the smoke will penetrate the hide.
	Cool punky fire Heat will destroy the hide so make sure the fire is cool.
	Moving hide over the smoke Invite some friends (or make some friends) over to help with this task.
	Maintaining a cool smoke If the fire gets too warm add more moist punky wood. Stay in control of the fire at all times.
	Getting close The color from the smoke is coming through the hide. After there is uniform color, turn the hide inside out and resmoke. This will take about 10 to 15 minutes per side.